|
|
|
|
||||||||||
| Xoutpost server transfer and maintenance is occurring.... |
| Xoutpost is currently undergoing a planned server migration.... stay tuned for new developments.... sincerely, the management |
 |
|
Â
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
Â
#41 Â
10-31-2017, 02:05 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Someday when I need to do my rears (those windows barely ever get used) I will do the same -
__________________
2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards 
|
| Sponsored Links | |
|
|
|
|
Â
#42 Â
08-15-2018, 11:12 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Hi guys,
I may look at an E70 in the future... Questions: - Does the E70 have the same issues of window clips like the E53? - Any issues with E70 window regulator?
__________________
1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT
|
|
Â
#43 Â
10-14-2018, 06:57 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
- Follow-up on post #36 above on Windows Sliding Clips.
- Just did similar Window Sliding Clips on my 2004 BMW X3 (not the same but similar idea)... - In the photo below that I posed previously, I used a Channel Lock pliers, however, I have found an easier technique: a small C-Clamp. With the C-Clamp, tape a nut on the flat part of the C-Clamp. As you tighten the C-Clamp, use a small screw to help press the metal "ferrule" into the plastic slot. - The reason for all this C-Clamp business is that: the "Regulator Fix" item was mfg'd with the slot smaller than factory, so it takes work to push the ferrule inward. In a way, this is better b/c when in operation, the ferrule does not pull on the tabs above (on the slider) but this is "friction fit", so the ferrule pulls on the sides of the plastic slot. - Hope this helps... - This is the photo that I posted last year using Channel Lock Pliers, but as mentioned above, the C-clamp makes things much easier... 
__________________
1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT
|
|
Â
#45 Â
10-21-2018, 01:11 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
An little UPDATE...
- In my previous posts, I mentioned using Channel Lock Pliers to squeeze the Cable "Ferrule" inward b/c the RegFix Plastic Clip is tight. - Now I think it is probably easier with a small C-Clamp + Torx #15 bit. - Just firmly squeeze it in and make sure you don't break the plastic clip. - Photo to show the idea of C-Clamp...
__________________
1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT
|
|
Â
#46 Â
10-22-2018, 10:09 AM
|
|||
|
|||
__________________
 2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
|
|
Â
#47 Â
10-24-2018, 08:49 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
- I have a little time, so I get to the bottom of this design and why it fails the way it does...
- If you look at the photos I posted in the original thread, the factory Slider Clip was still intact, although the 2 tabs were a little bent (maybe on the way out...). - The factory setup is that: the slot is loose and when the glass is going upward, the ferrule pulls on the 2 small tabs on the TOP of the Slider Clips, and over time, these tabs break. A better design is to have beefier tabs on the TOP of the Slider Clips! - The ebay RegFix White Clip is somewhat interesting. I understand this is aftermarket stuff, the slot was made very tight (probably unintentional but it works in our favor!), I had to use Channel Lock Pliers to squeeze the ferrule in the slot. So for the ebay RegFix White Clip, the SIDEWAY force from the plastic material holds the ferrule in place and there is little force on the 2 tabs on the top. Anyway, this may turn out to last longer b/c the force is NOT on the 2 tabs. - I took a random photo from the web to show the broken factory clip (Left of photo) and the ebay RegFix White Clip (Right of the photo)... ---
__________________
1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT
|
|
Â
#48 Â
11-03-2018, 03:06 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
- I forgot to make a note on the Door Panel Removal...
- The BLACK Rectangular Piece (BLUE Arrow) setup is: a. Slides into the Door Panel b. Snap into the Metal Prong (on the door itself) - During removal: once you pry all the clips out, PULL the Door Panel toward you but LIFT the door UPWARD a bit to disengage the BLACK Rectangular Piece. - During installation, my trick is...remove the BLACK Rectangular Piece from the Metal Prong: squeeze the metal prong with a pair of pliers to get the BLACK Rectangular Piece out. Now...spread the metal prong tabs outward a bit so it bites on the BLACK Rectangular Piece later. Use a small screwdriver to spread the metal prongs. - Before you remove the BLACK Rectangular Piece, note the orientation of the BLACK Rectangular Piece (it is NOT symmetrical). - Now install the BLACK Rectangular Piece on the Door Panel first using a bit of glue or tape to hold it in place. - During re-installation, just push the Door Panel into the tops 5 tabs (BLUE Circles), the BLACK Rectangular Piece will snap into the metal prong. ---
__________________
1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT
|
|
Â
#49 Â
11-03-2018, 06:42 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
- A quick note on modes of failure...
1. If the Cable breaks, or the Plastic Pulley cracks, you need new window regulator. Search forum for brand names: BMW $180; VDO $100; Amazon "Premium" brand $30 etc. 2. I just took some random photos from the internet and put them together... - Photo on the LEFT, when glass going up, the force of the cable ferrule is on the plastic tabs on the "slider" which are broken (RED Circle). The YELLOW Circle shows broken plastic prongs (4 of them)...but when this part fails, no big deal, window still going up and down but with a crackling noise, simply b/c the bolt is still there raising the glass up and down, even with the broken plastic prongs. 3. Photo in the MIDDLE shows broken guide rail (BLUE circle) and broken tabs (RED Circle). 4. Photo on the RIGHT shows normal setup. NOTE that when the glass is going up, the bolt is pushing on the flimsy plastic prongs, and with time, the prongs will break off. Just terrible design. You don't see this problem in the E39 5-series (different issue but no broken prongs). For the next repair, I am thinking about placing a small rubber hose at the bottom (YELLOW Arrow) to help spread the load, minimizing the chance of broken plastic prongs... ---
__________________
1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT
|
Déjame un comentario si tienes dudas sobre cómo usar el calculator o si necesitas el pinout para tu coche especÃfico. ¡Comparte el post para que más gente pueda arreglar sus tableros! 👇
La denominación "259" suele hacer referencia a versiones empaquetadas que prometen compatibilidad extendida o parches especÃficos para incluir hasta 2500 o más modelos de vehÃculos. Sin embargo, la última versión oficial estable y ampliamente distribuida de este software clásico es la . El Proceso Técnico: ¿Cómo funciona el software?
These are never free — they are sold to certified partners for several hundred to several thousand euros.
Aviso: Utiliza siempre este tipo de herramientas bajo tu propia responsabilidad y con fines estrictamente profesionales de reparación y diagnosis. tachosoft 259 descargar gratis gratis
: Not only does it calculate the values, but it also tells you the exact line and byte (hexadecimal format) where the mileage is stored in the EEPROM or MCU chip.
Tachosoft 259 es un software especializado en la gestión y análisis de datos de velocidad y distancia para vehÃculos. Es ampliamente utilizado por profesionales y entusiastas del automovilismo para obtener mediciones precisas y detalladas del rendimiento de sus vehÃculos.
Hoy en dÃa, muchas máquinas de diagnosis y programación modernas (como OBDSTAR o herramientas de DigiProg) ya integran los algoritmos de cálculo de manera automática sin necesidad de usar programas externos desactualizados. Déjame un comentario si tienes dudas sobre cómo
El mantenimiento y la programación de los sistemas electrónicos del automóvil han cobrado una relevancia sin precedentes. Dentro de este nicho, se ha consolidado históricamente como uno de los programas de software más buscados por mecánicos, técnicos en electrónica automotriz y aficionados a la reprogramación de cuadros de instrumentos.
Descargar TachoSoft 259 Gratis: Todo lo que Necesitas Saber sobre este Software de Odómetros
TachoSoft es una base de datos y una calculadora de kilometraje digital orientada al tratamiento de archivos dump (lecturas de memoria EPROM/EEPROM y microcontroladores) de los cuadros de instrumentos (dashboards) de una inmensa variedad de vehÃculos. Sin embargo, la última versión oficial estable y
Si lo que necesitas es corregir kilometrajes de forma profesional y segura, existen alternativas en el mercado que son más modernas y evitarte los riesgos de los virus:
Para ofrecerte una mejor guÃa sobre este procedimiento, indÃcanos:
Si estás planeando equipar tu taller o iniciar en la clonación de tableros, te puedo ayudar a identificar los mejores componentes. Dime: ¿Qué necesitas reparar prioritariamente? ¿O qué programador de memorias EEPROM tienes disponible actualmente? Share public link
La búsqueda de "tachosoft 259 descargar gratis gratis" es una trampa peligrosa. La versión no existe como software independiente; es un señuelo utilizado por ciberdelincuentes para distribuir virus y troyanos.
Déjame saber si buscas una versión especÃfica (ej. para un modelo de auto concreto) o si prefieres recomendaciones de herramientas alternativas más modernas. Share public link
|
| Bookmarks |
|
|
|
|
Linear Mode
